"If I was banished to the famous island and only allowed to take very, very little with me, what would I be sure to take with me? Potatoes and Wagyu fat! I would never, ever want to go without my much-loved jacket potatoes. Before you wonder why, I need to explain a little. Jacket potatoes are one of those classic recipes that you think you've got a handle on and prepare mindlessly. Even though they are simple, potatoes are not forgiving of such careless treatment. Sometimes they get too hard, sometimes not browned enough, then burnt again. But if they are handled with care, they will repay you with divine deliciousness. So follow these instructions and you will be happy for the rest of your life. At least as far as fried potatoes are concerned.

To do this, take

1 kilo floury potatoes 100 g goose or wagyu fat. Frying butter or 100 ml olive oil will also work. 2 tsp white flour Maldon salt

Before you start with the potatoes, place a roasting tin in your oven. It should be large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer. Then heat the oven to 200 °C (fan oven 180 °C). Now you can get to grips with the potatoes and peel them before cutting them into halves or - for larger ones - quarters. Place the potatoes in a large pan and cover them with water, adding 2 tablespoons of salt. As soon as the water boils, reduce the heat and simmer the potatoes uncovered for 2 minutes.

In the meantime, pour 100 grams of duck fat, goose fat, roasting butter or 100 millilitres of olive oil into the hot roasting tin and heat in the oven for at least 15 minutes. It should be really very hot.

The potatoes are now blanched and you drain them in a sieve, which you shake vigorously back and forth a few times. Use this to roughen the surface of the potatoes - this is good for the much-loved crust. Then sprinkle your potatoes with 2 teaspoons of flour and shake them vigorously again once or twice. This time so that the potatoes are evenly and thinly coated with flour.

Now comes the big moment: carefully place the potatoes in the hot fat - they will sizzle nicely. Turn them a few times so that they are coated all over with fat. Roast the potatoes for about 15 minutes, then take them out of the oven and turn them over. The whole process continues for a further 15 minutes: roast and turn again. Do this a third time until the jacket potatoes are nice and golden and crispy, another 15-20 minutes. Their colouring looks uneven, and that's how it should be."